In Europe, against the backdrop of Putin’s bombs, the fashion season is in full swing.
But there was a notable absence of frippery in Milan this year. Instead, designers such as Jil Sander, Miuccia Prada and Matthieu Blazy at Bottega Veneta sent out collections that felt fresh, confident and fearless.
“Excitingly, there does seem to be a renewed energy among designers,” says stylist and fashion editor Lucy Wood. “There’s experimentation with fabrication and colour palettes, but not in a flippant way – there’s a strong focus on wardrobe classics to take us through winter, like trench coats, tailored pants and A-line skirts with cosy jumpers.”
Ok, so blazers aren’t new – we’ve always been huge fans of a tailored jacket thrown over jeans or, more recently, worn as part of a relaxed suit. A black tuxedo jacket will never date.
In Milan, though, blazers were over-sized and styled with everything, shrugged over an evening dress or slinky slip of a skirt, or else providing balance to a micro minis at Prada.
If you’re looking for a go-with-anything piece this autumn, an over-sized jacket is it.
Veteran fashion journalist Cathryn Horan was in raptures this week over designer Matthieu Blazy’s collection for Bottega Veneta, his first after the departure of the feted Daniel Lee.
“Fashion has a brand-new star,” Horan announced, praising Blazy’s surprising use of leather to create grass-like underskirts and “denim” jeans created entirely from nubuck.
Other designers were just as creative, sending out shirts, jumpsuits and pants in the softest, most supple leathers and faux.
Deadwood, whose black leather trousers are below, uses re-purposed leather offcuts and recycled fabric to create parkas, while brands like Nanushka have gorgeous faux leather pieces in surprising colours.
“Designers are steering towards using a more ethical way of including leather textures, whether recycled or faux,” says Wood. “The move to faux is consumer driven and means you can get the look of real leather at an affordable price point, too.”
Sorbet mixed with chocolate
In a trend that we at PRIMER have dubbed ‘choc top’, sorbet shades of lemon and pistachio were mixed with chocolate brown at Jil Sander, Fendi and others.
Chocolate is a great neutral: less severe than black, it adds depth and a touch of luxury when set against lighter shades and fabrics.
Camilla and Marc have some beautifully tailored, oversized pieces in chocolate and forest green, which will work well with any summer shirts or dresses you’d like to continue wearing through the cooler months to come.
Styled by Lucy Wood